Dining in Chicago
 

मित्रो ! अभिषेकजी इन दिनों एक माह के शिकागो प्रवास पर हैं ! कुछ उनके ख़याल से ... कुछ भविष्य में जाने वाले मित्रों को ध्यान में रख मैं यह सूत्र शुरू कर रहा हूं ! अनुवाद काफी समय लेता है और फिर मेरी टंकण गति काफी कम है, अतः इसे मूल भाषा अंग्रेज़ी में ही प्रस्तुत कर रहा हूं, किसी मित्र को यदि किसी स्पष्टीकरण की दरकार हो, तो बेझिझक मुझे कहें, मैं हिन्दी में अर्थ प्रस्तुत कर दूंगा ! (किन्तु यह पढ़ते हुए ध्यान में यह अवश्य रखें कि 'यह 1931 का शिकागो' है !) उम्मीद है, यह सूत्र आपका न सिर्फ ज्ञानवर्द्धन करेगा, बल्कि मनोरंजन भी करेगा !

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

Dining in Chicago

by John Drury

with a foreword by Carl Sandburg


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TO MARION...
The Best Dam' Dinner Companion In All Chicago

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

Who is John Drury

John Drury... first began his gastronomic adventures in this life at Chicago, Illinois, on August 9, 1898... in school he was terrible in arithmetic but talented in drawing... had to quit high school to help lift the mortgage of the old homestead... worked in factories, drug stores, stockrooms and department stores... continued education in Lane Technical Night School, studying English composition and French... remembers the English composition but forgot the French... fired from his job as clerk in a South Clark Street bookshop because the proprietor caught him once too often reading Keats... worked on a farm in the Illinois River valley and quit after a week because the plow horses would stop in the middle of a furrow and look at him contemptuously... later became clerk in book section of Marshall Field department store... at outbreak of World War was refused admission to army and navy because of failure to meet physical requirements... intent on wearing a uniform (being Irish), he enlisted in the 11th Regiment, Illinois National Guard, and helped to keep Chicago safe for Democracy ... in 1918 went to New York City to live in Greenwich Village... first contact with intimate side of restaurant life gained while working as a bus boy in Child's, on Broadway, near Wall Street... helped edit a literary magazine in the Village... began to write free verse poetry -- but not because everybody else was doing it... returned to Chicago and Marshall Field's book section... reviewed books for Llewellyn Jones, of the Chicago Evening Post... went to Los Angeles in 1920 where he made his first bow in journalism as copy boy on the Los Angeles Record, having been hired by Ted Cook, of "Cook-Coos" fame... the third day on the job Ted made him a cub reporter, giving him as his first assignment the duty of checking on the price of eggs... two months later he was made dramatic and motion picture editor of the Record... made several expeditions across the border into Mexico, but not for alcoholic purposes... after getting enough of the City of Angels and Hollywood, he returned to Chicago, where he became a police reporter on the City News Bureau... his poetry began to appear in the "little magazines that died to make verse free"... to New York again (1923) where, after John Farrar gave him a free meal at the Yale Club, he shipped as a messman (gastronomy, again) aboard a tramp freighter to the east coast of South America, visiting Brazil and the Argentine pampas ... back to Chicago again and began reviewing books for Harry Hansen, on the Chicago Daily News... another sea voyage in 1925, this time to London... same year saw publication of his first book, "Arclight Dusks," a volume of free verse poems ... joined reportorial staff of Chicago Daily News in 1927, after which he covered many gang murders... second book, "Chicago In Seven Days," appeared in 1928, and, since its printing, he has become a sort of "unofficial guide" to the city... last summer he made an expedition across the border to Canada, for alcoholic purposes... he smokes a pipe... has a talented wife... and a dog... has never lectured to a woman's club or over the radio... his hobby is Chicago... Carl Sandburg once wrote of him: "John Drury loves Chicago very much. It is neither an ethereal nor an ephemeral love that John has for the Windy City. John walks, rides and flies over it. He eats and sleeps anywhere in it. A thousand cops know him. So do all the reporters, and he never gets into trouble."

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

FOREWORD

On reading over the text of John Drury's book one is not merely persuaded that Chicago is a place to stop for more than a sandwich and a cuppa coffee. From page to page he hammers home the evidence that cooking skill and kitchen science has drifted to Chicago from the continents of Asia, Europe, Africa and the archipelagoes of the seven seas. The ancient declaration, "Man doth not live by bread alone," serves as a literal and materialistic text for Drury's rambles. The good eater who is proud of his repertoire at the table, who is a little vain about his talent at handling a knife and fork for the guidance of victuals, must acknowledge that if he can't find a place for performance -- after listening to Drury on when and where to go -- something is wrong.
Of course there are a couple of million people in the Windy City who never go into the general run of these places. A single course of the food at some of the more elaborate emporiums would be a tasty square meal for many of these people.
There are, however, those who would like to eat first hither and then yon every day in the week, with no two days alike. Also there are the people who have drawn extra pay or had a ship come home or made a killing in a crap game. Also there are the folks who get tired of the home cooking, the delicatessen, the kitchenette, and wish an evening of change. If any of these get sore at Drury, that's ingratitude. Those who refuse to thank him are ingrates who probably happen to be off their feed, as the farmhands say.
Furthermore, there are the citizens like the present writer who have a high batting average and fielding average in the one- arm joints where the taxi drivers mention "rusta biff" knowing just whom they are kidding. These citizens can enjoy reading about where to eat and thereafter converse more intelligently about such food establishments as have personality, savor, and savoir faire.
Authorities in folk lore credit Chicago with the origin of the tale of the two garbage wagon drivers stopping to pass the time near a house into which had moved a new family. The driver who had in his official capacity served them that morning was asked what kind of people they were. He replied, "I don't know. All I know is they got swell swill."

Carl Sandburg

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

We read in this thread-


Hors d'oeuvre
An Old American Custom
An Old French Custom
Around the Town
Thirty-three Gastronomical Locations
More Gastronomical Locations
Rialto Tables
Along the Avenue
Around the World
Dining in Bohemia
Americana
Among the Literati
Between Trains
Uptown and Northward
Shopper's Rest
Suburbia
Temples of the Sun-dodgers
The Great Black Way
Wide Open Spaces
Cover Charges and Minimum Charges
Tipping

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

HORS D'OEUVRE


A Few Appetizing Words About the Public Tables of the Town

If you think that Chicago, from a gourmet's point of view, is nothing more than a maze of red-hot stands, chili parlors, cafeterias, barbecue stalls, one-arm joints, chop suey restaurants, counter lunch rooms and all other such human filling stations, artistically embellished with bullet holes, you're as mistaken as Columbus was when he started out on his trip to India the wrong way.
Engage in an earnest trip of exploration about the town and you will find, as with Old Chris, a whole new world -- a world of epicurean delights that you never thought existed in the City of Winds. We will admit, of course, that the human filling stations are here and in abundance, too, just as they are in New York, New Orleans, or San Francisco; but Chicago, like these other cities, can also boast of first-class restaurants that would delight the heart and palate of the most fastidious and cosmopolitan of gourmets.
There are many people, especially among those who go frequently to London or Paris, who would laugh at the idea of such a book as this. "What," we can hear them exclaiming, "dining in Chicago? Why, you canH dine in Chicago. When I want to dine I go to Paris!" These wellmeaning but uninformed persons, it develops, possess a very limited knowledge of the restaurants of Chicago and of the table delicacies to be found in them.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

It is for the benefit of such haughty innocents, both native and otherwise, that this book was written. We will show them gastronomical locations that are high up on the lists of all knowing epicures; we will point out aromatic steak houses, boulevard cafes, foreign coffee houses, hotel dining rooms, chop houses, sea food establishments, roadhouses, tea rooms, bohemian haunts, weinstubes and inns -- all types and kinds of eating places where foods are wholesome, inviting, novel and expertly prepared. Chicago is full of them if you but know their names and addresses.
For in this very same city, you may sit with sultry-eyed Arabs in one of their basement coffee houses and eat arische mahshi, with baklawa and a demi-tasse of Turkish coffee for dessert, while around you the swarthy descendants of the Bedouins smoke those Oriental water-pipes and argue politics in a strange tongue. Or you may prefer to dine with actors and actresses who live at the exclusive Blackstone Hotel just to say they are stopping there, but who sneak off to a hole-in-the-wall tea room next door where the meals are good -- but inexpensive.

Similarly, on noisy Wells Street, at the west end of the Loop, there is an old German restaurant where millionaires, who can afford the most expensive of tenderloins, come for Hamburger steak... On the other hand, the most appetizing tenderloin steak we've ever tasted, in this city where steaks come from, was in an obscure Roumanian restaurant among the suffocating tenements of the west side "Valley."

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

You don't have to go to Prunier's in Paris for bouillabaisse -- that famed Mediterranean fish stew. We have it right here in Chicago -- and as skillfully prepared and delicious as that which they serve in Gay Paree. You will find it on the menu of a dine-and-dance palace on the Rialto -- of all places -- and cooked by a former Prunier chef. Nor is it necessary to go to Paris for moules mariniere or escargots bourguignonne, those other popular French delicacies; a French restaurant in an old town house on the near north side features these items for the knowing epicure. Another "one flight up" restaurant has been offering frogs' legs to Chicago for many years past.

Chicken bird's nest soup, that queer but tasty concoction made from the substance that certain Oriental birds use for cementing their nests, awaits you in any of the Chinese eating houses of "Chinatown" -- as do chicken chow mein subgum, fried fresh shrimps and kumquats. Caruso's favorite spaghetti restaurant is still doing business in a little brick house across the river on the near north side, among frowning warehouses. And in a lovely Colonial dining room in the Loop, where the waitresses are pretty and college-bred and wear crinolines, you may revel in the tastiest of corned beef and cabbage, that popular Irish-American dish.
* * * *
In a narrow, London-like side street, near the Federal Building, you may step back into Thackeray's day by dining in an old English inn, where pink-coated waiters bring out thick mutton chops and plum pudding; and in the very heart of the Theatre Sector your palate can feast on Mexican chili and hot tamales. Here, too, is a hole-in-the-wall eatery known from Broadway to Hollywood for its steaks. It is patronized largely by theatrical stars. And in a restaurant in South Michigan Boulevard you may spend a night in New Orleans, feasting on pompano and Creole gumbo and other New Orleans delicacies.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

* * * *
You may celebrate the annual Colchester oyster feast, which originated in early Norman days in Colchester, England, to mark the official opening of the oyster eating season, in the dining room of a Michigan Boulevard hotel; you may also celebrate the Passover feast of the Jews by much eating of matzos and gefiilte fish in a restaurant patronized by Jewish intellectuals and writers in the west side Jewish quarter.
* * * *
Crepes Suzette as fine as any served in France are to be had in Chicago; and those incomparable Italian specialties, veal scallopine and spaghetti with Parmesan cheese, are items to be found on the menus of many an obscure cafe in "Little Italy;" Swedish smorgasbords tempt you in the eating houses of "Herring Lane," as the north side Swedish district is called ; and the best waffles in town are found in a little Uptown waffle shop.
* * * *
Not to forget those familiar American edibles -- wheat cakes, ham and eggs, pies, strawberry shortcake, red-hots,
Boston baked beans, roast turkey, sugar-cured ham and baked Idaho potatoes -- all these you may find most appetizing in the many and varied white-tiled lunch rooms of "Toothpick Row," in the middle of the Loop. Excellent foods are also to be had in most of the restaurants located in railroad terminals and, for the shopper, in State Street department stores.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

* * * *
up on the north side, in the old German quarter, a Bavarian tavern features Sauerbraten and Kartoff elkloesse, and German potato pancakes; all the waitresses are blonde in a downtown restaurant, which, despite this, serves food as good as any in Chicago; writers who are influencing contemporary American literature foregather at a "round table" in the shadow (and amid the noise) of the Wells Street elevated; on Randolph Street is a restaurant founded a few years after the Civil War and still serving good food; the Mayor and other public officials often eat in a west side store-front restaurant, turning their backs on the dining rooms of the big hotels downtown.
* * * *
Russian goluptse, Bohemian roast goose with sauerkraut, Greek lamb chops, Polish beef filet a la Nelson with mushrooms, Filipino adobo -- foreign and exotic edibles of all kinds you may eat in this "melting-pot" of the middle west. Too, you may hobnob with the fashionables of the town in smart boulevard cafes and hotel dining rooms; with long-haired bohemians in the basement eating parlors of "Tower Town"; with actors and actresses on the Rialto. You may brush shoulders with college boys and boys who don't go to college in the Uptown district; with distinguished university professors in Hyde Park; with wealthy pork packers and sun-tanned cowpunchers of the stockyards; and you may eat chitterhngs among the happy-go-lucky colored folks in the "Blackbelt."
* * * *
All these gastronomic adventures, and more, await you in the Windy City and are yours if you have the experimental instincts of the true epicure. In this book, of course, we have made no attempt to list all the public tables of Chicago, but only those that are outstanding by reason of their cuisine, service, setting, prices, clientele and traditions. The only thing we regret is not having had the opportunity to appraise them according to that other standard of the dear dead days -- their cellars.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

AN OLD AMERICAN CUSTOM

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Comes now an authority on cocktails who deposes and says that cocktail imbibing, that great American indoor sport, is of Mexican origin. Discarding the domestic rooster theory, Harry Craddock, of the Savoy Hotel, London (known as the King of the Cocktail Shakers), offers as proof of his contention the story of King Axolotl VIII of Mexico and the wonderful potion.
Harry says that over a hundred years ago the old king, tired of border skirmishes between his troops and the American army, wanted to make peace before he kicked the bucket. So he sent an invitation to the American general (whose name Harry apparently doesn't know) to come and talk over peace terms at the king's palace. A banquet was spread, but before the guests started eating the tortillas and hot tamales, a beautiful woman appeared bearing a gold cup which contained a special potion brewed by her own hands.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

Immediately, there was embarrassment. Who should drink first -- the king or the American guest of honor? The day and Mexican-American relations were saved, however, when the beautiful woman took the first sip herself. The American general, upon drinking, was loud in his praises of both the drink and its purveyor. Being an American, he wanted to know who the beautiful dame was.
"That," said King Axolotl (try to pronounce his name), "is my daughter, Coctel!"
"Great," said the American general. "I will see that her name is honored forevermore by the American army."
Presumably, he asked for the recipe of the potion. Coctel, of course, became "cocktail" after the drink had gone the rounds of the army.
Another noted cocktail authority and shaker, Robert, of the American Bar, Casino Municipal, Nice, offers the rooster story as being the one most generally accepted. This concerns an American innkeeper of the nineteenth century who was proud of his daughter and of his big prize-fighting rooster. One day the bird disappeared. He offered his daughter in marriage to the man who would find it. A young cavalry officer brought it back. The innkeeper was highly pleased. He brought out the materials for drinks.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

"His daughter," continues Robert, "either by accident or from excitement at the sight of her future husband, mixed whiskey, vermouth, bitters and ice together. Everybody liked this delicious concoction so much that it was christened 'cocktail* right on the spot." Robert goes on to tell how the cavalry officer told his fellow officers about it and soon the whole American army took it up.
That the cocktail was known over a century ago in the United States, and that it was used at that time as a vote getter, is shown in the following quotation which Robert takes from The Balance, an American magazine, under date of May 13, 1806: "Cocktail is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters -- it is vulgarly called bittered sling and is supposed to be an excellent electioneering potion."
The American general who promised old King Axolotl that his daughter's name would be honored henceforth by the American army, seems to have made good his promise, for the American army and the cocktail appear to have been inseparable ever since. Everyone knows that it was the officers of the A. E. F. in France who first introduced the cocktail into Parisian cafe life. The "cocktail hour" is now a feature of daily routine among the bons vivants of the French capital.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

But whatever its origin, cocktail drinking is an old American custom. It has been truly said that what wine is to a Frenchman, whiskey to an Englishman, beer to a German, the cocktail is to the American. It is always taken before dinner, and in that respect is similar to the French aperitif, or appetizer. Assuming, therefore, that you are an American and that you believe in maintaining the customs and institutions of your forefathers, we herewith submit a few cocktail recipes- -- some old, some new -- which we guarantee will put you in the proper frame of mind for an evening's dinner excursion abroad in the town.

CHICAGO COCKTAIL: Fill the mixing glass half full of broken ice, add one or two dashes of Angostura Bitters, three dashes of Curasao and one-half a gill of Brandy. Stir well, strain into cocktail glass; add an olive or cherry, squeeze a lemon peel and drop it into the glass, and pour a little Champagne on top. Before straining the mixture into the cocktail glass, moisten the outside borders of the glass with lemon juice and dip into pulverized sugar.

Robert, of the American Bar at Nice, and formerly of the Embassy Club, London, vouches for the Chicago Cocktail -- and you'll agree that his vouching is above question.

SUNSHINE COCKTAIL: To one-sixth gill of Old Tom Gin, add one-sixth gill of French Vermouth, one-sixth gill of Italian Vermouth, and two dashes of Orange Bitters. Stir well, strain into cocktail glass, and squeeze lemon peel on top. A favorite of the old Olympia Club in San Francisco -- and there's a reason.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

THE MARTINI: Into a shaker half -filled with cracked ice, pour two-thirds of a wine glass of Gordon Gin, one-half wine glass Italian Vermouth, and add a dash of Orange Bitters. Shake well, and serve with a piece of orange peel or an olive, to each glass. An old standby -- as good now as it ever was.

THE STINGER: Simple as pie. To one-half Brandy, add onehalf Creme de Menthe, shake well and strain into cocktail glass -- which is just the way they used to make them in days of old.

THE TICONDEROGA: To one jigger of Dubonnet, add a dash of Italian Vermouth, a dash of Grenadine and just a touch of lemon. Emil Rutz, manager of the extinct Vogelsang's, concocted this -- and the Loophounds liked it.

HORSE'S NECK: Into a large bar glass containing a few lumps of ice, insert the spiral of a lemon peel so that one end hangs over the rim; add one teaspoonful of powdered sugar, one pony of Gin, and fill glass with ginger ale. Uncle Charley ought to go for this old-timer in a big way.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

ARMOUR COCKTAIL: Into a mixing glass half -filled with shaved ice, pour half a jigger of Sherry, half a jigger of Italian Vermouth, three dashes of Orange Bitters; mix well, strain into cocktail glasses and add a piece of orange peel. Charlie Roe and Jim Schwenck, those two good mixers, in their home bartender's book, tell us that people "Back-o'-the-Yards" used to drink this before breakfast and then go out and beat up a policeman, but we think it's nothing more than a bracer for old ladies.

THE BRONX: To one- third Gin, add one- third French Vermouth, one-third Italian Vermouth, and the juice of a quarter of an orange. Ice, shake well, and then note the results upon imbibing.

THE MISSION: To two-thirds Gordon Gin, add one-third French Vermouth; stir well and strain into cocktail glass into which a stuffed olive has been placed. This was a great attraction to the boys at the old Mission Bar in West Madison Street before Mr. Volstead appeared.

THE GARNET: Half fill shaker with chipped ice; to one part Gin, add three parts juice of a blood orange, a dash of lemon and a dash of maple syrup; shake as usual, strain into cocktail glass... and hey! hey! The favorite concoction of the painter, Fred Biesel -- very colorful and exotic.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

CLOVER CLUB SPECIAL: Into a shaker half -filled with cracked ice, pour three parts Vicker's London Dry, one part fresh cream, one part Grenadine; shake well and serve in sauterne glasses. Bertani, former head waiter, made the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec famous with this cocktail -- which is easy to understand after tasting it.

C AND C: To one-half Brandy, add one-half Cointreau. No limes and don't shake... and you'll soon think you are aboard a Cunarder, whence it gets its name.

THE YEGG: To one-third Brandy, add two-thirds Port Wine and the yolk of an egg. Sweeten with powdered sugar or syrup. "This baby will 'hold you up' no matter where you are going," says Judge, Jr.

SIMPLE MANHATTAN; To two parts Rye Whiskey, add one part Italian Vermouth; shake well with fine ice and strain into cocktail glasses. As old as the hills and still in vogue.

THE GILBERT: To one jigger of Gordon Gin, add one-half jigger of French Vermouth and one-half jigger of Italian Vermouth, a touch of Absinthe, and strain into cocktail glass. Concocted by Paul Gilbert, of the Chicago Evening Post, and a favorite of Ring Lardner, when both rested their weary reportorial feet on the brass rail at Stillson's.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

OLD-FASHIONED COCKTAIL: To one glass of Canadian Club Whiskey, add four dashes of Angostura Bitters, one lump of ice, one tablespoonful of granulated sugar, and stir until sugar is dissolved. Serve with a strip of fresh pineapple, a slice of orange, and a Maraschino cherry.

THE PINK LADY: To one jigger of Gin, add orange syrup to color, a dash of Apollinaris, and one half a lime. Ice, stir well, and serve. Another Paul Gilbert creation, now become a standard cocktail. Said to be Walter Winchell's favorite.

SILVER FIZZ: One part Gordon Gin, the white of one egg, one-half teaspoonful of powdered sugar (or, to taste), cracked ice, and enough seltzer. Serve in a tall glass. A GOLDEN FIZZ is made the same way, substituting the yolk of an egg for the egg white. First rate for a sultry evening.

THE SIDE CAR: To two-thirds Brandy, add one-third Cointreau, and one-half Hme juice... and your dinner will be topped off nicely.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

ORANGE BRULOT: Take an orange, roll it well on all sides with considerable pressure, make two circular incisions in skin midway between stem and navel -- clear around circumference -- leaving a strip one-half inch wide in the middle. Loosen skin (all excepting middle strip) with end of a spoon. Push back skin carefully and turn inside out, so that "cups" are formed at both ends of orange. Place a cube of sugar in upright cup, pour into it two tablespoons of Brandy or Whiskey, touch a lighted match to it, and stir until sugar is melted in blue flame. Then drink hot... and offer a toast to Ferdinand Alciatore, of the famed La Louisiane restaurant in New Orleans, where this delicious after-dinner cordial originated.

WHISKEY SOUR: To one jigger of Scotch Whiskey, add the juice of half a lemon, one teaspoonful of granulated sugar and a twist of lemon peel. Something for the morning after.

THE SWISSESS: To one glass of Absinthe, add one teaspoonful of Anisette Syrup, and the white of one egg. Shake well together, strain into a small wine glass, add a dash of seltzer, and serve. Another swell morning after pickme-up.
And Finally

THE BROMO SELTZER: Into a large tumbler, put one tablespoonful of Bromo Seltzer; fill tumbler with soda, then pour into another tumbler. Repeat this twice, and rapidly, until powder is dissolved, and drink while fizzing.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

AN OLD FRENCH CUSTOM -- And Another Matter

Since we are dealing with the subject of civiHzed restaurants for civihzed individuals -- and by civilized individuals we mean those persons who are aware, cultured, cosmopolitan, and gay when gayety is in order (such as yourself, or else why would you be reading a book on dining) -- we come now to an old French custom practised generally by civilized people throughout the world in connection with the art of dining -- namely, wine drinking.
But don't get excited! We're not going to let the cat out of the bag. The restaurants included in this book have all heard of prohibition and their proprietors conduct themselves accordingly. Of course, we're not denying that wine and other alcoholic goods are to be found in Chicago. Good heavens, no! What do you suppose we've had all the shootin' fer?
With many obscure little restaurants and other similar places all over town, and some not so obscure, that have about as much respect for the Eighteenth Amendment as the eminent Mr. Capone has, it is certain that you ought to get a wee bit here and there. But we're sorry we cannot help you out on that score. All we can do is to advise you to use your own resources, ask around a bit -- and smoke a Murad if you get turned down. But try again some other place. If unsuccessful otherwise, you ought at least to find Dago Red.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

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In case you're more fortunate, however, and come upon a wide assortment of table wines, and you wonder why so many different kinds are manufactured, we shall take on the role of sommelier, as the French call a wine waiter, for the nonce, and try to point out the various kinds of wines to drink at mealtime. Remember, we said "for the nonce," which relieves us of any implication of pretending to be an expert on the subject. But we have studied the matter somewhat, or else how could we a-noncing go?
Brillat-Savarin, prince of epicures, says that wine, "the most pleasant of drinks, whether we owe it to Noah, who planted the vine, or whether it is due to Bacchus, who squeezed out the juice of the grape, dates from the infancy of the world." In modern times, there are more varieties of wines than Heinz's products, and the secret of pleasurable wine drinking is in knowing what vintages to sip with what courses. Herewith we print a list of the wines most commonly used, and the courses for which they are intended.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

WITH HORS D'OEUVRES, OYSTERS, FISH


The light foods used for appetizers require light thin wines -- in other words, white wines. You may make your choice of a number of these wines. For example:

Graves (Fairly dry and thin)
Barsac (Intermediate, having more flavor)
Chablis (Dry and thin)
Montrachet (Said to be the best of all white wines)
Riesling (A popular Alsatian wine)
Pouilly (Thin and somewhat dry)
Meursault (Quite dry)

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

WITH THE MEAT COURSE


Here we come to the red wines -- a Bordeaux, a Burgundy or a Rhone. Bordeaux wines are otherwise known as "clarets."


Saint-Julien (A popular Bordeaux red wine)
Medoc (Fruity and generous)
Saint-Emilion (Excellent, if sufficiently old)
Chateau Larose (Light and fruity)
Hermitage (A strong C6te-du-Rh6ne wine)
Anjou (Rich, and sweet; from the Loire Valley)
Pauillac (Heavy, generous, and fruity)
Chambertin (One of the great red Burgundies)
Beaujolais (Another Burgundy, light and fruity)

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

WITH GAME, ROASTS, AND MEATS OF HIGH FLAVOR


A fine old chateau wine from the Bordeaux region should accompany your venison or buffalo. Chateau Lafite and Chateau Margaux are especially recommended -- if you can get them. If not, try some high-grade Burgundy.

With DESSERT
Chateau d'Yquem (Rich and sweet and grand)

With CHEESE
Connoisseurs will always demand a Burgundy of good vintage.

With PASTRY
Such Sauternes as Chateau Yquem, Suduiraut, or Coutet; or a Muscat from Tunis; or a Champagne may be used with sweet desserts.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

You are confused ... ?

In the event that you are confused by all these names, and have no time to find out what they mean, you may simplify matters by ordering a few of the wines which are suitable for the entire meal. These vintages are found mainly in the white wines, such as Riesling, Barsac, or white Bordeaux. Barsac is a good medium wine for a medium price and may be chosen for all practical purposes. Of course, if the cards are stacked against you and you have exhausted your Murads in going about, you may have to be satisfied with plain ordinary Dago Red. And remember that Dago Red, being a very cheap concoction parading under the name of wine, is of high alcoholic content. So watch your step and don't imbibe too much.

Re: Dining in Chicago
 

AROUND THE TOWN

Thirty-three Gastronomical Locations For Epicures and Others

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TIP TOP INN

A. Hieronymusy Host

Frankfort-on-the-Main, in southeastern Prussia, goes down in history as the birthplace of two great men -- J. Von Goethe, the poet, and A. Hieronymus, the host. For what Goethe is to Kterature, Hieronymus is to epicureanism in Chicago. We know of no other caterer in Chicago who more closely approaches the creative artist than this elderly, distinguished founder and host of the historic Tip Top Inn. Where else can you find a restaurant offering 109 specialites de la maison -- original viands created by Mr. Hieronymus and his chefs. Turn to the back page of his large dinner menu and see them listed! If this isn't proof that Mr. A. Hieronymus is as great an artist in cookery as was Mr. J. Goethe in iambs, then we'll m.ake a meal oflf our words. But "the proof of the pudding is in the eating." And so it is. You must eat some of these highly original dishes for verification of mine host's reputation in cookery.
Let us point out a few of them. Among the oysters (in season) are Baked Rockaways a la Hieronymus -- a dish nothing short of marvelous. So also is the shore stew, consisting of lobsters, oysters, and shrimps. In the relish column there are Lobster Filets Cardinal, Crabmeat Grace Louise, and English celery with anchovies -- all delicacies that live up to the word "relish." Essence of tomato with fresh crab and whipped cream heads the list of soups en tasse, with mousse of new peas a la Pullman as our second choice.

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Getting down to fish and shell fish, we know of nothing more succulent than the stuffed whitefish with crabmeat or the stufifed lobster in shell a la Pullman. As for entrees, you will not be making a mistake in ordering Boned Grilled Chicken Strasbourg, as thrilling as an airplane ride (but not so uncertain), or in ordering the doebird en casserole (for two) , which is worth the $4.00 you pay for it.
Not to overlook chafing dishes, mine host offers Mallard Duck a la Hieronymus (in season) , for which we would gladly pay twice the $5.50 that he modestly charges for it; Imperial Sirloin Steak, a sirloin like none other in Chicago; and Chicken Flakes Kingsbury, a dish that is poetry to the palate. And there are other chafing dishes too. Among the salads is StuflFed Pear Tip Top; among the desserts are Mussolini Slice, Colonial cup and Omelette Glace Surprise; and in the cheeses we suggest Camembert with Romaine and Oriental dressing. Special Tip Top drip coffee is another creation of the house that you shouldn't miss.
These delightful dishes, which make the Tip Top Inn an epicure's paradise, were not created overnight. No, they are the result of more than thirty years experience on the part of Mr. Hieronymus in watching over the kitchens of the Tip Top Inn. These specialties have made it a landmark of the town, as much an institution as are those other familiar landmarks, Marshall Field & Company and the Stockyards.

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Here is what Wallace Rice wrote about the Tip Top Inn in his chapter on Chicago hotels and restaurants, appearing in "Chicago and Its Makers," by Paul Gilbert and Charles Lee Bryson: "Especially worthy of note because it has survived happily and prosperously into the living present is the Tip Top Inn, conducted for many years by Adolph Hieronymus on the uppermost floors of the Pullman Building. Originally known as the Albion Cafe, it was taken over in 1893 by its present proprietor, who was an apprentice under two of the greatest chefs the city has known, William Thomann, of the Tremont House, and Joseph Seil, of the Palmer House."
During its career, the Tip Top Inn has been the gathering-place of many of the first families of Chicago as well as of notables from the stage, opera and music world. Here came such world-famed actors and actresses of the past as Lillian Russell, Richard Mansfield, Sir Forbes Robertson, Anna Held, and Robert Mantell -- and among the living, George M. Cohan, DeWolf Hopper, Blanche Ring and Richard Carle. The literary critics -- Floyd Dell, Harry Hansen, and the late Keith Preston -- came here too.
At the present time, everybody who is anybody in Chicago has dined at least once in the Tip Top ; but it is a particular favorite with such diners-out as Ashton Stevens, the drama critic, and his actress-wife, Katherine Krug; Arthur Bissel, vice-president of Lyon & Healy Company; Fanny Butcher, literary editor of the Chicago Tribune; Frederick Stock and Eric De Lamarter, the Chicago Symphony Orchestra conductors ; James Keeley, official of the Pullman Company; Richard ("Riq") Atwater, columnist of The Chicagoan; and Colonel A. A. Sprague, the civic leader.

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One of the reasons why these interesting people come here is found in the many delightful dining rooms of the Tip Top Inn -- the Dickens Room, like an old English inn, with a beamed ceiling, fireplace and sporting prints and portraits of Pickwick, Sam Weller and other familiar Dickens characters hanging about the walls; the Italian Room, quiet, elegant and Neapolitan; the Nursery, with its Mother Goose nursery rhymes; and the Black Cat Room, with its whimsical feline motifs. And in two of these rooms there is music from stringed orchestras. Service at the hands of polite colored waiters is perfection.
By all means don't miss the Tip Top Inn. And the view from the windows overlooking Chicago's lake front is grand.
The Tip Top Inn American
Michigan Boulevard at Adams
Open daily and Sundays, 11:30 AM, to 10:00 P.M.
A la carte and table d'hote luncheons in all rooms. Table d'hote dinner in Black Cat Room, $1.00. Both a la carte and table d'hote dinners in other rooms. Prices reasonable. Maitre d'hotel: Adolph Hierony'nus

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SCHLOGL'S
Meet the Literary Lights!

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Robert J. Casey, newspaperman, explorer, humorist and mystery-story writer, has his nose buried deep in a German apple pancake as big as an elephant's ear; Lew Sarett, poet, sturdy woodsman and Indian authority, is making short work of the Southern hash; Henry Justin Smith, managing editor of the Chicago Daily News and author of "Deadlines" and other novels of newspaper life, prefers two boiled Q"s' toast and jelly; Vincent Starrett, the handsome bibliophile and essayist, obviously likes his Southern ham with corn fritters, while Howard Vincent O'Brien, literary critic and novelist, goes in for ham and eggs; but big Gene Morgan, the columnist, swears by the corned-beef hash with poached egg.

See them eating -- the literary lights of Chicago. It is Saturday noon at Schlogl's. They are crowded about the big round walnut table in the right-hand corner -- talking, laughing, joking and shouting "Hey, Richard!" whenever the waiter is needed. Women are forbidden here. Therefore, male camaraderie prevails, the atmosphere is thick with smoke from many a cigar and pipe, everything is informal, diners take their time and tell stories, and the Hamburger steaks and Wiener Schnitzel are plentiful and appetizing.

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Other regulars who come to the "round table" -- although, of course, not all at any one time -- include John T. Frederick, novelist and editor of The Midland magazine; Dr. Morris Fishbein, author of "Medical Follies;" S. L. Huntley, writer, epicure, and creator of the popular comic strip, "Mescal Ike;" the drama critics: Lloyd Lewis, of the Daily News; Gail Borden, of the Times; and Fritz Blocki, of the American; Charles Layng, shortstory writer and globe-trotter; Phil R. Davis, lawyer, Loophound, and sometime poet; Jack Brady, "the publicitor;" Hal O'Flaherty, foreign news editor of the Chicago Daily News; Paul Leach, political writer and author of "That Man Dawes;" George Schneider, lawyer and bibliophile; Le Roy T. Goble, the advertising man and connoisseur of the arts; and the Midweek magazine group: Robert D. Andrews, editor, and two of his star contributors. Sterling North and Upton Terrell.

What the Mitre tavern in Fleet Street was to the writers of Dr. Samuel Johnson's day, Schlogl's is to the scribes of Chicago's "Newspaper Row" at the present time. Also, it is one of the oldest restaurants in town, having been founded here in 1879 by Joseph Schlogl as a combined restaurant and weinstube, or wine-room. The interior is the same as on the day it was first opened, only the ornate tin ceiling, the walls and the large oil paintings depicting monks drinking wine in old cellars have become a bit musty and smoky with age -- which is appropriate. The walnut tables, walnut panelling and walnut service bar are kept well-polished by Richard and his two assistant waiters, Charley and August.

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Schlogl's had its beginnings as a literary lounge in the days when Carl Sandburg, Sherwood Anderson, Ben Hecht, Robert Herrick, Edgar Lee Masters and Maxwell Bodenheim foregathered here. Others came after them -- Bart Cormack, playwright and author of "The Racket;" J. P. McEvoy, of 'The Potters" fame; Pascal Covici, the publisher; Charles Mac Arthur, who wrote "The Front Page" with Ben Hecht; Clarence Darrow, attorney and writer; John V. A. Weaver, author of *Tn American;" Harry Hansen, the literary critic; John Gunther, foreign news correspondent and novelist; J. U. Nicolson, author of "The King of the Black Isles;" the drama critics, Ashton Stevens and Charles ColHns; Gene Markey, man of letters and bon vivant; Robert Morss Lovett, of the New Ke public staflf; James Weber Linn, columnist; Mitchell Dawson, poet and lawyer; Irwin St. John Tucker, poet and rector of Chicago's "poet's church;" Kurt M. Stein, who writes in the German-American dialect; Edward Price Bell, dean of foreign correspondents of the CJoicago Daily News; Don Lawder, now of the New Yorker; Sam Putnam, literary critic; W. A. S. Douglass, contributor to the American Mercury; Junius B. Wood, the foreign correspondent; and Horace Bridges, the essayist.

Since we seem to be doing nothing but listing names, we might just as well go all the way and put in the names of other well-known writers who have visited and dined here -- 'Witter Bynner, Heywood Broun, Alfred Harcourt, Donald Ogden Stewart, E. Haldeman-Julius, Paul H. De Kruif, Upton Sinclair, Bobby Edwards, William McFee, Sinclair Lewis, Konrad Bercovici, Arthur Brisbane, William Allen White, D. W. Griffith, Gilbert Seldes, Horace Liveright, Louis Untermeyer, Jay G. Sigmund, Nelson Antrim Crawford, and the English visitors, -- Rebecca West, Hamilton Fyfe, Ford Madox Ford, Francis Brett Young, E. O. Hoppe, and Brig. Gen. Edward L. Spears.

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You will find the autographs of all these literary notables in what has become known as "Richard's Book" -- a copy of "Midwest Portraits," containing literary recollections of the Schlogl gang, written by Harry Hansen and presented by him to Richard Schneider, who waits on the "round table." No other restaurant in the world boasts a book like this, wherein is described the restaurant itself, and the people who eat in it, and having in its end sheets the autographs of those written about.

Naturally, the "Who's Who" of the American literary world would not come here unless the cuisine were such as to meet the approval of fastidious men of letters. This place serves food that the most cosmopolitan of epicures would revel in. The Stewed Chicken a la Schlogl can be gotten nowhere else. MilHonaires who can afford sirloins and tenderloins come here for Hamburger steak, which is fried in butter and prepared as only Chef Paul Weber, who has been here for thirty years, knows how to prepare it. The steaks and chops demand more than just this mere listing of them. There is also savory Wiener Schnitzel and Hasenpfeflfer, roast young duck, and bouillabaisse. Too, the Schlogl pancake is deserving of a chapter to itself.

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When accompanied by a lady, you eat upstairs in an old dining room, where the ceiling is cracked, the wallpaper is beginning to peel in places and warmth in winter is provided by an old coal stove. All is atmospheric and thrillingly ancient -- except George Kling, who has a youthful alertness in seeing to the culinary needs of the distinguished ladies and gentlemen at his tables.

You haven't dined in Chicago unless you've eaten at least once in this historic restaurant. If you're in any way literary, you are probably on your way over there by now.

SchlogVs German- American

37 North Wells Street

Open for luncheon and dinner (closed on Sunday)

A la carte only -- and expensive, but worth it Maitre d*hotel: Richard Schneider

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THE BREVOORT
'Famous For Food'

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Breast of Guinea hen! What an exquisite flutter of the palate as we write those words. What thoughts at mention of this dish -- of Johnny Bartsch, oldest of the Brevoort waiters, bringing the generous portion under glass, (which always reminds us of the wax flowers under glass in grandmother's Victorian sitting room -- but only as far as the glass is concerned) ; of the savory white flesh, with just the slightest flavor of game; and of the appetizing corn fritters, fresh mushrooms and sweet bit of ham that come with it. We'll wager our last dime that nowhere in the middle west can you get a better breast of Guinea hen than in the main dining room of the Brevoort Hotel in Chicago.

Many are the notables who have partaken of the Brevoort's Guinea hen. Trixie Friganza, the actress, always visits the Brevoort when in town, and always orders Guinea hen; it Is also a favorite dish of Charles S. Deneen, former senator of Illinois, and Len Small, former governor of the state -- both of whom are habitues of the dining room. There are many other bigwigs who are Guinea hen addicts, so many that Charles Sandrock, maitre d'hotel here for seventeen years, cannot remember them all.

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But don't get the impression that Guinea hen is the Brevoort's only specialty. Other foods are here in abundance. As a matter of fact, the Brevoort occupies about the same position among local gourmets as does the historic Hotel Brevoort dining room in New York City among gourmets of that metropolis. Chicago's Brevoort breathes an atmosphere of the unhurried past like its eastern sister -- of leisurely dining, good fellowship, and an excellent cuisine. The Brevoort has been catering to Chicago for over a quarter of a century; it is the same today as it was in the days of heavy beards and bustles. The main dining room is still located in the basement and still has a Victorian air about it; and Henry, the chef, is still here, as well as Charley Sandrock, Johnny Bartsch and many of the other waiters, whose names are familiar to scores of prominent people about town.

Nowhere have we found more truthful advertising than in the sign over the old Brevoort entrance, *Tamous For Food." As a hotel, the Brevoort is just another hotel, but as a house of food we oflfer it the silver loving cup. What a tantalizing array of other Brevoort specialties besides Guinea hen -- imported Irish bacon and fried apples, with the bacon really coming from Limerick; Special Sirloin Steak a la Chas. S., featuring a delightful garniture that Charley Sandrock invented himself; broiled baby lobsters; Squab en Casserole a la Parisienne; and broiled mushrooms on toast. We could name half a dozen other specialties, but these will give you an idea of what this house offers. On the a la carte menu, which is as inclusive as any in town, you'll also find many German and French dishes, and choice sea foods and game in season.

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Luncheon is the high moment in the Brevoort day. The basement dining room is crowded with sleek, well-fed brokers, and aged, white-haired financiers from the Board of Trade and the La Salle Street financial district, which are just around the corner from the Brevoort. The Coffee Grill in the lobby upstairs is alive with the conversation of red-faced politicians and prominent officials from the City Hall, nearby; and the famous old "Round Bar" at the rear of the lobby, done in the manner of a luxurious Moorish temple (red lamps and Saracenic scroll work and all) , formerly the Hannah & Hogg Bar, is serving its delicious plate luncheons to lawyers, advertising men and newspaper men. In all of these places, the food purveyed comes from the one kitchen and Chef Henry Friedenberg watches over that kitchen like a hawk.
The Brevoort Hotel is situated in the center of the Loop and is convenient to all the more important hostelries of the downtown district proper. We advise you not to miss the Brevoort if you want food fit for a king, and want it amid restful surroundings and at the hands of waiters as civil and courteous as any to be found in the best Parisian cafe.
The Brevoort American
120 West Madison Street
Coffee Grill open from 8 :30 A. M. until midnight. Main dining room open for luncheon and dinner (Sundays included). "Rotmd Bar" for luncheon only.

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बहुत ही सही मौके पर अलैक जी यह सूत्र लेकर आये हैं। :cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:

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ST. HUBERT'S
Merrie England in the Loop

Thick English mutton chops and plum pudding await you in delightful old St. Hubert's English Grill. This little bit of England in the Loop, tucked away at the foot of the towering Union League Club, is located happily on narrow, London-like Federal Street, and on a foggy day you'd think you were in some by-street just o£F Piccadilly Circus. Here, polite pink-coated English waiters bring you a mutton chop so thick and juicy that its taste lingers in your mouth for days. Dr. Sam Johnson might utter an immortal bon mot over it. As for the plum pudding, Mr. Dawell, the proprietor, is apologetic. "We haven't the brandy so necessary in making it," he explains wistfully. But his cooks do an excellent job of it with what materials they have.
Here is the atmosphere of an old English inn such as you read about in Thackeray or Dickens. The ceiling is low and beamed; long English clay pipes, smoked by Chicago celebrities who dine here, hang from the beams; old English sporting prints decorate the rough stone walls; the atmosphere is quiet and homey and heavy with smoke; the fire-place puts you in a mood of ease and relaxation. Upstairs, where you dine when accompanied by a woman, framed pictures of British royalty abound and the plate-rail is filled with English crockery and other mementos of British life.

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Mr. Da well's guest book shows visitors from all over the globe -- Rio, Singapore, Paris, Scotland. Henry Irving, Ellen Terry, William Faversham and other Anglo-American theatrical stars have eaten here in the past, as well as Sir Thomas Lipton and Charles Dickens, Jr., son of the novelist. This is one of the favorite dining places of those two noted Union Leaguers, General Charles Gates Dawes and Frank O. Lowden, former governor of Illinois.
The late John J. Mitchell, the banker, came in often; even "Big Bill" Thompson, former mayor of Chicago, has reveled in English mutton chops here on a number of occasions; Clarence Darrow, the great criminal attorney and liberal, had his wedding breakfast in St. Hubert's many years ago; Richard Henry Little, conductor of the popular "Line O' Type Or Two" column in the Chicago Tribune, and his wife, Shelby Little, the authoress, are frequent visitors. St. Hubert's has even made its way into contemporary fiction, being described in Mary Plum's "The Strange Death of Judge McFarlane" and in John Gunther's "The Red Pavilion" and a number of other novels.
Try St. Hubert's. We know of no more charming and pleasant adventure in town than a dinner of mutton chops in this picturesque and authentic old inn. You'll like the London accent of the waiters and their inborn courtesy. And Mr. Dawell, who was born in a little town in Illinois, is our idea of a perfect host.
S. Hubert's Old English Grill English
316 Federal Street
Dinner a la carte only -- and rather expensive. Business men's table d'hote luncheon.